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www.vietnam.co.nz - Hue

Hue

A city situated geographically in the middle between Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh city. Hue carries a rich royal history dating back hundreds of years and used to be the capital of Vietnam under the Nguyen Dynasty from 1802 – 1945. During that time, many now-historic sites were built and these remain the highlights of Hue.

On the Old Citadel side of the river, beside the old French Bridge, there’s a typical market and a few shops. Near one of the citadel’s entrances are three restaurants side by side, selling delicious and authentic Hue cuisine. The middle one, Lac Thanh Restaurant is owned by Mr Lac, a deaf and mute man – this is the original and is recommended by the Lonely Planet Guide (as no doubt you’ll see on the big signs outside his shop) He’s a great character and since his restaurant was so popular the two restaurants next door now employ deaf people too.

Across the river from the Old Citadel, you’ll find the bulk of hotels, shops and restaurants. The area is small and pleasant to walk around. A few 5 star hotels are in the making but at the moment, the Morin Saigon, a colonial style hotel is number one and also has a good central location.

Hue is also the place to take day trips to what was the DMZ or Demilitarized Zone which temporarily split the north and south between 1954 and 1975. During the American War, some of the fiercest fighting happened just south of the DMZ which inspired movies like Hamburger Hill. Since 1975, 5000 people have lost their lives from unexploded mines and left over ordnance. 2003 saw two killed by mines.

Within the DMZ, the Vinh Moc Tunnels housed a village of over 600 inhabitants for often weeks on end during American bombing. The 2km maze of tunnels are dug out between 10 – 23 metres underground and include family dwelling rooms, a school and a maternity ward where 17 children were born. Unless you’re an avid scholar of the war, the rest of the DMZ holds little relevant interest these days. Poor farmers have taken anything metal and sold it as scrap or used it as building material. Battle scenes are now paddy fields. There is a war museum here too but a much better one is in Hanoi.

Highlights:

The Old Citadel.

Enclosed in a massive 10km long perimeter, the Royal Palace and the Forbidden City (styled after the Chinese one). Although much now lies in ruins due to massive bombings, the palace escaped damage. Bits and pieces are continually being restored and some parts have been returned back to their former glory. Definitely worth a visit, even if you have to close your eyes now and then to image just how magnificent it would have once looked like.

The Mausoleums.

Dotted nearby the Perfume River which runs right through Hue, these were built by succeeding emperors. The mausoleums each have their own story to tell as they were built to the taste and extravagances of the emperor who would then be buried there. Their tombs, along with the usual temple and harem are set in beautiful park like surrounds with lakes, hills and Chinese style buildings. To soak up most of the atmosphere, it’s best to take a wooden boat up the river to see them.

Experience true Vietnamese Cuisine

Enjoy the exotic dishes prepared at Lac Tranh Restaurant

Visit the Demilitarized Zone

If you're into the American Vietnam war history then a visit to the DMZ will surely appeal. Not much left here in terms of actual relics but you'll see where some of the fights took place plus experience the underground village where an entire village lived when fighting was at its fiercest.

Getting there and away:

To / From Ho Chi Minh City:

Train takes from 17 hours 45 minutes Plane takes 1 hour 20 minutes

To / From Hanoi:

Train takes from 12 hours 15 minutes Plane takes 1 hour 10 minutes

To / From Hoi An:

Train takes from 2 hours 15 minutes Van / Bus transfer takes about 1 1/2 hours

To / From Nha Trang:

Train takes from 11 hours 25 minutes

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